Welcome today's entry for the
indieBRAG Christmas Blog Hop:
Christmas in the Land of Balthasar
Morning Prayers at the "New Jerusalem:" Lalibela |
This year I have
the privilege of celebrating Christmas in one of the oldest Christian countries
on earth: Ethiopia.
Many of you will
know that it was in Ethiopia that “Lucy,” the 3.2 million-year-old skeleton of
a female human ancestor, was discovered in 1974. It is less commonly known that
not only did Christianity become the state religion of Ethiopia before it was
adopted by Constantine for Rome, it was also the home of Balthazar — at least
according to Ethiopian legend.
Ethiopia is a
country rich in legend, history and culture. The Ethiopian royal family (not
deposed until the last quarter of the 20th century) claimed its
direct decent from the biblical King Solomon and the Queen of Sheba. “Sheba?”
you ask, “but wasn’t that was in Yemen.” Not according to the Ethiopians—and
there is substantial archaeological evidence to support them! Modern research
suggests that the culture that flourished on both sides of the Red Sea and led
to the establishment of the ancient cities in Yemen originated — like mankind
itself — in Ethiopia.
The Queen of Sheba by Edward Poynter, 1890 |
Ethiopia was also
home to a people that practiced a form of Judaism so ancient it was alien to
the modern Jewish rituals and their right to immigrate to Israel was disputed. Furthermore,
the Ethiopians claim to possess the original Ark of the Covenant, i.e. the wooden chest in which the stone
tablets inscribed with the Ten Commandments was stored and for which Solomon built the Temple
in Jerusalem. If that sounds far-fetched, remember that according to the Bible
Moses’ wife was “Ethiopian.” (And for those of you who want to read more, Graham
Hancock has written a book called The
Sign and the Seal.)
During religious processions, people dance in the streets, often behind a replica of the Ark. |
But all that
pre-dates the legend of Balthazar.
According to
Christian tradition, three wise-men (also called magi or
kings) came “from the East” following a bright star in search of the King of
the Jews.
"The Three Wise Men" by James Tissot |
That star came to a halt over the stables in which Mary had given
birth to Christ. The three wise men entered and knelt before the infant Jesus,
presenting gifts of gold, incense and myrrh.
With time the three magi were given names: Melchior, Casper and
Balthazar. They were also given characteristics:
Casper was old and bearded, Melchior middle-aged, and Balthazar--at least since
the 12th Century--was increasingly depicted as a young black man. It
is perhaps not coincidental that the 12th Century was the period in
which Christians controlled Jerusalem and in which an Ethiopian prince lived
there in exile. (This prince, incidentally, was to build a complex of churches
hewn out of bedrock after the fall of Jerusalem to Saladin, allegedly in an
effort to construct a New Jerusalem. But that is another story....)
The Ethiopians
claim the black magi, Balthazar, as one of their own—and they have some justification. First, Ethiopia was at the time of Christ a powerful and wealthy
empire. It had an advanced, sophisticated and hierarchical culture with royal
palaces, massive temples, and a written language. Ethiopia’s trading ties stretched
up the Red Sea to Egypt, the Levant and Greece, and also across the Gulf of Aden and
the Arabian Sea to India. The products they sold included not just ivory but
gold, incense and myrrh.
The "Adoration of the Magi" by Martin Schongauer |
According to the
Bible, the three magi returned to their own countries. The Ethiopians believe
that Balthazar returned to Ethiopia and began spreading Christianity at once.
Thus, they argue, there were already many Christian communities in Ethiopia
even before their King converted and made it the state religion of his empire
in AD 345 — before Constantine made it the state religion of the Roman Empire.
Christianity has
been the primary religion of Ethiopia ever since, although nowadays roughly one
third of the population is Muslim. The language of the Ethiopian Church is
still the ancient Semitic language of Ge’ez, spoken in AD 345, and the liturgy
most closely resembles Syrian Orthodox traditions. The Ethiopian Orthodox
Church shares the adoration of Mary, the Holy Trinity and many saints with
other Christian churches, notably the Apostles and St. George, but they also
have their own Ethiopian saints. One of
my favorites is St. Yared, who is credited with developing Ethiopian Church
music.
St. Yared in a Ethiopian Church Painting |
Daily life in
Ethiopia is dominated by the Church to this day. Before dawn the first service
is sung — and broadcast via loud speakers to the surrounding community.
Services are sung again around dusk. Services last up to three hours and never
less than 90 minutes. Each church is dedicated to a different saint and on that
saint’s day there are special services. Every day of the year, people
congregate in the yard and spill out into the street at one or more churchs,
with the largest crowds at the church whose saint's day it is.
Driving to work means passing crowds of men and women, both wearing white cotton shawls over their heads and shoulders, gathered before one or more of the four churches I pass in my 15 minute drive. Drivers often bow their heads and cross themselves as they pass. People sell candles, crosses and other religious trinkets before the churches. Beggars, particularly handicapped beggars, congregate there as well.
Driving to work means passing crowds of men and women, both wearing white cotton shawls over their heads and shoulders, gathered before one or more of the four churches I pass in my 15 minute drive. Drivers often bow their heads and cross themselves as they pass. People sell candles, crosses and other religious trinkets before the churches. Beggars, particularly handicapped beggars, congregate there as well.
Ethiopians also
take fasting very seriously. In fact, they fast — meaning they eat no meat,
fish, eggs or dairy products — roughly 150 days out of the year. They fast for
forty days before Christmas, just as they fast before Easter.
Christmas itself
is celebrated on January 8. It is celebrated with mass and feasting and
gift-giving to commemorate the gifts brought to the Christ child by the magi.
The Church services have special Christmas music, but unlike our carols they
are not song sung by the congregation and certainly not broadcast over the
radio. A special bread is baked in an outside clay oven and served with a
meal of raw, ground beef — for those who can afford it. Others slaughter a
sheep or a lamb.
Hearing Mass Outside - Lalibela |
There are no
special decorations associated with Christmas. No Christmas Trees or colored
lights. No Santa Claus. And no shopping madness. Stores are not decorated, and
there are no reminders of the number of “shopping days” until Christmas. To an
outsider, Christmas is not very different from another other day. The more
important holidays in the Ethiopian Church calendar are Timkat (commemorating the Baptism of
Christ in the Jordan River) and Meskel (commemorating the discovery of the True
Cross by St. Helena.)
Timkat in Addis Ababa 2014 |
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